There are four types of radiation – UVB, UVA, HEV and IR.
UVB represents 5% of the suns radiation and contributes to redness and burning… it is mostly absorbed in the epidermis and 10% in the superficial dermis. It can cause direct damage to our DNA. It intensifies according to the season, time of day and geographical location.
UVA represents 95% of UV radiation and affects the epidermis and the lower layer dermis. It causes the skin to produce free radicals, skin lipid(oils) oxidation and alters our DNA. It maintains its intensity throughout the day and can penetrate glass and other surfaces so can affect us while indoors.
HEV is visible light and makes up to 400 to 450 nm of the solar spectrum of light. It is also emitted from the screens of electronic devices. It accelerates lipid oxidisation and triggers the production of melanin and the formation of blemishes. It increases the activity of an important enzyme called MMP which starts to cause imbalances in our skin function.
IR effects o the skin are long-term and cumulative. It produces heat in the tissues and acts as an accelerator for the others. It accelerates cellular oxidisation and activates a protein called HSP to produce collagen as a defence mechanism.
So how do sunscreens protect us? Physical filters means that the SPF has mineral particles that reflect or disperse a large proportion of the lights mentioned before. It is highly photostable which means it does not damage the skin when it is exposed to sunlight and is heat resistant. It has a great affinity to dermal structures and therefore does not cause issues with sensitivity. They are generally the ingredient zinc oxide.
Chemical filters which are often used in the cheaper brands allows the light through and breaks it down in the skin. Therefore some damage may be already done.
An SPF with both mineral and chemical properties is optimal.
So how much sunscreen should you use and when? You should apply a good dose of SPF every 2/3 hours. 2ml/cm2 is recommended – this translated to measuring, if the SPF you apply can cover your index and middle finger when poured out of the tube … then it is the right amount for your skin.
You need to apply it is every 2/3 hours because SPF loses its Efficacy 50% every hour. So after 1 hour is it 50% less effective than when you put it on.
Also, reapply after sweating or a bath.
And use good sunglasses to protect the eyes and a protective hat and clothing. And avoid the direct sun from 11 am to 4 pm.
When you are choosing an SPF, we need to understand the information on the package. The COLIPA method is a standard for the EU. A rating of 6-14 indicates low protection, 15-29 indicates medium protection and 30-50 indicates high protection.
At Crysallis Skin, we offer our own Crysallis SPF50 which gives a lovely glow to the skin as it has a slight tint and contains mineral and physical particles. It is mousse like and suitable for all skin types.
Alumier SPF have 4 types of SPF50 – untinted, tinted, for oily skin and a range of tinted SPF for all skin types.
MEdik8 have a physical SPF50, and Chemical SPF30, which is suitable for people under 30.
Mesoestetic have many types of SPF50. Being a European brand from Spain, the land of sunshine, they have taken SPF to a new level! They have an antiaging ingredient called Collagen pro-47 and complex of minerals and chemical that protects against ALL rays and is not “chalky” on the skin. Their product range includes an oily SPF for dry skin, a matt SPF for oily skin, an untinted light water antiaging veil for sensitive skins, antiaging facial sun mist for top-up SPF in the day, antiaging full-body sun mist and a sun repair stick that contains Musk Rose for sensitive areas which is often used by clients that have the Cosmelan peel. In our opinion Melan 130 is gold plated in my opinion for people suffering from pigmentation. It also contains a tyrosinase inhibitor to reduce pigment production.
To order our SPF products, visit our online shop here.